A visit to Naples is
unthinkable without a stop at the most important churches, for they are precious
keepers of invaluable works of art and testify to the city's glorious
history. A tour of these churches should begin at the Cathedral, the
centre of the city's religious life.
Inside is the Chapel of St. Januarius containing the relics of this
saint, the patron of Campania.
Named after Our Lady of the Assumption, the cathedral was built by
Charles II d'Anjou on the site of the earlier Stefania, a 6th century
basilica whose remains can still be seen in the adjoining Palazzo Vescovile
(Archibishop's Palace).
Situated on the same site were the Basilica of Santa Restituta, the twin
building of the Stefania (4th century), and the seat of Asprenus, the
first bishop of Naples, who was subsequently elevated to sainthood.
The construction of the Cathedral was actually ordered by Charles II, who
requested its building.
The facade was destroyed by the 1349 earthquake and was completely
rebuilt over the centuries.
The neo-gothic style now predominates, as intended by the designer Enrico
Alvino. However, the most recent reconstruction work was carried out in 1951
and 1969 in order to repair the serious damage caused by bombings of
1943.
The portals of the church are in the 15th century style and are the work
of the sculptor Antonio Baboccio (1407).
Note the main portal, decorated with Lions supporting columns (14th century),
and a Madonna by Tino di Camaino.
The interior follows a Latin cross plan with aisles, sustained by 16 piers
supporting a total of 110 antique granitic columns.
The monument to Charles I, Charles Martel and Clementina of Hasburg, which
stands out in the double facade, was created at the end of the 16th century
by Domenico Fontana.
The Christening Font is a fine work of the 17th century.
Of particular note in the right-hand transept is the altar-piece of Our Lady
of theAssumption, by Perugino.
To the right of the presbytery (second chapel), lies the Minutolo Chapel,
a fine example of Gothic architecture. It is distinguished by the Minutolo Tombs
and a series of beautiful frescoes and paintings, said to be the work of Montano
d'Arezzo and Roberto d'Oderisio.
To the left of the presbytery (second chapel), is the Chapel of St. Lawrence,
with its Jesse Tree, a valuable fresco by Lello da Orvieto (14th
century).
The polygonal apse dates from the 18th century, while the four transept
chapels preserve their original Gothic appearance.
Of particular interest are the four paintings in the transept, and the 14th
century bishop's throne in marble (situated beneath the left-hand organ). The
Cathedral also contains many tombs of illustrious figures including St.
Asprenus, the first bishop of Naples.
Below the high altar is the Cathedral'sSuccorpo, a small chapel,
also known as the Confession of St. Januarius or the Carafa
Chapel. It is maintened by Bramante contributed to its design (it is
currently closed for restoration work). It is reached via a double staircase
which is closed by two bronze doors and was commissioned in 1497 by
Cardinal Oliviero Carafa. The relics of St. Januarius are kept here. They are
contained in an urn at the altar, opposite which is the Statue of Cardinal
Oliviero Carafa at Prayer by the local artist G. T. Malvito.
The construction of the Chapel of theTreasury of St. Januarius
(San Gennaro) was begun on the 7th June 1608 to a design by Francesco
Grimaldi, to fulfill a wow made by the city which some decades earlier had been
threatened by the plague. The brass entrance gate was designed by Cosimo Fanzago
in 1630. The chapel follows a Greek cross plan and is surmounted by a
dome. The dome was painted in the 17th century by Lanfranco (Heaven);
the remaining frescoes are the work of Domenichino (Episodes from the Life of
St. Januarius). The paintings on copper at the altar are by Domenichino and
Ribera. The high altar was built to a design by Solimena and is completely
covered with silver and gilded copper decorations. In front of this are two
beautifully made silver candelabras. Behind the high altar there is a safe with
two keys, one in the possession of the Cardinal of Naples and the other with the
Mayor (who is the head of the Treasury delegation) - the safe contains the two
phials of the martyr's blood which are displayed to the public twice a year - in
September and on the Sunday before the first Sunday of May - when the
liquefaction miracle repeats itself. It is in this occasion that the exquisite
Reliquary Bust is displayed to the public; it was made in the city in the
14th centuty by the French Masters Etienne, Godefroyd, Guillame de
Verdelay and Milet d'Auxerre. It is considered to be one of the masterpieces of
Gothic goldsmith's art from beyond the Alps. The Sacristy, entirely
painted by Giordano and Farelli, contains the Bust of St. Januarius
cloaked in a red cope, and 44 silver busts of the co-patron saints of
Naples. Up until a few years ago these statues were paraded through the
streets of the old town centre - from the Cathedral to Santa Chiara - to
celebrate the "May Miracle" which commemorates the removal of the saints
remains from Montevergine, in the province of Avellino, to
Naples.
The Church of Santa Restituta was built around 334. It is situated
within the Cathedral and is reached via the entrance opposite the
Treasury Chapel. Not much remains of the original structure, the ancient
Constantine Basilica with its Latin cross plan. Some Baroque details were added
to the building's characteristic Byzantine style during the most recent
restoration work around the end of the 17th century. The entire building
rests on 17 Corinth columns. The chapel contains the body of Santa
Restituta, of African origins, who together with St. John is the patron of the
island of Ischia. Note the mosaic of the Madonna with Child
Enthroned between Saints Januarius and Restituta by Lello da Orvieto. Of
particular artistic interest is the Chapel of San Giovanni which used to
be the baptistery. Otherwise known as San Giovanni in Fonte, it
dates from the 4th-5thcenturies. The building is square in form
and opens at one end into the Church ofSanta Restituta. Note in
particular the splendid mosaic decorations, created at the time of the
baptistery's foundation. They represent Episodes from the Gospel,
Saints, Symbols of the Evangelists, and a Monogrammatic
Cross.